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  • Re: PM5D users...help?

    I've seen the same thing over the past few months. Interesting that THAT particular encoder would have a problem and no others. Interestingly, I only do HA adjustments on the encoders, very rarely on the expanded strip section of the console. I also never leave my encoders in that mode, so the jump to HA is not likely to be caused by a faulty encoder (at least from it becoming faulty from over-use)...

    Here's something, I have the preferences set to have "Attenuator adjustment from panel" off. I changed that a while ago, which may coincide with the HA screen coming up randomly.

    After using the same console for about 6 months, I'd say this HA screen thing only started a few months ago, and I had never updated the console, but MAY have changed that preference...

    Try:
    Change that preference (just a thought)
    Update to lastest Firmware (2.25)

    It doesn't happen with the frequency that you're exeriencing, but it does seem to be getting more frequent.

    Let me know if you discover the cause.

  • Re: LAB SUB, TH115 Demo? Local?

    Nate Conti wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 14:00

    Oh ok great!!! I've been to your area of CT years ago...You got any gigs you are deploying them to? Thanks for the reply!


    All the gigs I'm doing lately are somewhat smaller, the big gigs don't pick up again until school starts at the local colleges. I can set up a demo any time you want at my shop. Let me know.

  • Re: LAB SUB, TH115 Demo? Local?

    Art Welter wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 16:26

    OK, Silas,

    We’ll be looking for those 1-4 Lab response charts again!


    Oh yes, they are coming! And a TH412 demo is in the works.

  • Re: What amp should I buy for my JBL MRX518S subs?

    Bob Leonard wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 20:46

    Chad Sobota wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 19:18

    Bob Leonard wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 14:09

    Correct Mike, I constantly make the mistake of thinking these subs are 8 ohms. In which case a 2450 would suffice here. And thanks for pointing that out. Sucks to get old.

    Well I just ordered the QSC RMX 4050HD yesterday, since everyone was saying go with the RMX 4050HD. Now everyone is saying go with the RMX 2450. How much of a risk am I at now for blowing my JBL MRX518S (500W/1000W/2000W and 4 ohms) with the RMX 4050HD?

    I ordered a DBX DriveRack PA+ for my new setup. Is there any settings I can set to make sure I do not blow these subwoofers with the RMX 4050HD?



    You'll be more than happy with the 4050 even though the 2450 might do the job fairly well.

    You want to make sure that you use the Wizard on the 260 to set up the DSP. If you use the wizard and tell it exactly what you're using you'll notice that it will take the amp size into account. Be sure to set the amp sensetivity settings as required (it will show a picture and run these puppies in stereo.

    If you look at the crossover after the Wizard runs you'll see that the subs are down in level some 6 to 12db from the tops. Now, if you've set the gain structure up properly 0db will be 0db and you'll be OK with the speakers. Keep your ears open and don't just throw those fader full throttle until you're sure everything is OK. And it's OK to NOT push the speakers as hard as possible just becaue you feel the need for more SPL. If that becomes the case BUY ANOTHER PAIR OF SUBS. You already have the amp.


    I just ran the wizard using 515/2450 - 518/4050 combo and both top and sub are set to 0db. I notice though that the limiter is on and that it is set by the Wizard at +10db. Listen carefully after you set this up. You can always drop the sub level using the DSP. The crossover points were very close to those of the SRX series boxes.

  • Re: Sennheiser IEM-G3 vs 2000 series

    Thanks for your input!

    Nathan DePaulo wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 13:59

    What I've learned from researching this subject before is that for basic usability there's not a huge difference. For example the performer would not really be able to tell one from the other. The real difference comes from the feature set (configuring receivers from the transmitter menu, more flexibility in setting frequencies, etc...)

    I dunno. There's a huge price difference, so I'd hope there's more to it than features, in that it actually sounds better and/or has better RF performance. In fact, the features are really the same. For example, you're not quite correct... The wireless configuration of the receiver from the transmitter is also possible on the G3.

    It does have UP TO 75mhz switching bandwith, but only at the higher frequencies, and higher max. RF output power. I would assume those 2 items are where the majority of cost increase is incurred.

  • Re: What amp should I buy for my JBL MRX518S subs?

    Chad Sobota wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 19:18

    Bob Leonard wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 14:09

    Correct Mike, I constantly make the mistake of thinking these subs are 8 ohms. In which case a 2450 would suffice here. And thanks for pointing that out. Sucks to get old.

    Well I just ordered the QSC RMX 4050HD yesterday, since everyone was saying go with the RMX 4050HD. Now everyone is saying go with the RMX 2450. How much of a risk am I at now for blowing my JBL MRX518S (500W/1000W/2000W and 4 ohms) with the RMX 4050HD?

    I ordered a DBX DriveRack PA+ for my new setup. Is there any settings I can set to make sure I do not blow these subwoofers with the RMX 4050HD?



    You'll be more than happy with the 4050 even though the 2450 might do the job fairly well.

    You want to make sure that you use the Wizard on the 260 to set up the DSP. If you use the wizard and tell it exactly what you're using you'll notice that it will take the amp size into account. Be sure to set the amp sensetivity settings as required (it will show a picture and run these puppies in stereo.

    If you look at the crossover after the Wizard runs you'll see that the subs are down in level some 6 to 12db from the tops. Now, if you've set the gain structure up properly 0db will be 0db and you'll be OK with the speakers. Keep your ears open and don't just throw those fader full throttle until you're sure everything is OK. And it's OK to NOT push the speakers as hard as possible just becaue you feel the need for more SPL. If that becomes the case BUY ANOTHER PAIR OF SUBS. You already have the amp.

  • Re: Do you see what I see?

    off "pitchedness"

    Is that really a word? I could think of some good uses for a word like that! Laughing

    I could tell my wife "why are you so pitchedness?" Or "You are so pitchedness what makes you think I want to do anything for you?"

    Or to the singer who needs more of himself in the monitors because he is so deaf "If I turn up the pitchedness any more were going to get feedback!"

  • Re: What amp should I buy for my JBL MRX518S subs?

    I don't think I've ever heard anyone look back on a 4050 purchase and wish they had bought something less adequate. You can blow speakers with underpower, and overpower! It all depends on how you drive!

    Looking back on your driverack purchase may be a different story though... Very Happy

  • Re: The Dunning-Kruger Habenero effect.

    My favorite sauces are Marie Sharps from Belize. All degrees of hotness, they cut the hot with a little sweet from carrots so it doesn't have a strong vinegar base.

    http://www.mariesharps.us/

  • Re: QSC PLX3602 & JBL MRX 525

    Art Welter wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 20:14

    Jeff Wheeler wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 17:40

    I won't pretend to understand how the PLX power supply works on the load side, but lower input voltage translates into increased current draw which means increased heat.



    Glad you are not pretending.

    Lower input voltage makes for lower output voltage, less current draw.


    Let me take a crack at this: Lower input voltage makes for lower output voltage, (and with same load) should = less current draw (assuming same efficiency).

  • Re: QSC PLX3602 & JBL MRX 525

    Jeff Wheeler wrote on Thu, 02 July 2009 17:40

    I won't pretend to understand how the PLX power supply works on the load side, but lower input voltage translates into increased current draw which means increased heat.



    Glad you are not pretending.

    Lower input voltage makes for lower output voltage, less current draw.

  • Re: Exapanding the PA?

    Sell the jrx for $400 on craigslist. sell the amps for what you can get for them. sell the monitors for $300. This gives you a budget of $3k with the 1500 you want to put in. Buy a pair of QSC k12 or HPR if you have the back for it for mains and a pair of qsc k10 for monitors. Easy to rent qsc subs and one day buy 1 or 2 of em. Easy to setup, provides no brainer good sound, and for the events you want to get, looks slick and professional within your budget.

    passive might be great for a growing sound company (tho mine is moving more and more to all powered cept the biggest rig) but for a wedding and corporate band with no real sound guy, passive will make your life easier and sound better while looking more pro.