Once again I seek the wisdom of this great board to help us at our church. We are ready to wire up our monitor system, which, in effect, will replace all of our old house wiring in the process.

We currently have a Medusa 16+4 snake from stage to FOH, combined with some very old in-house wiring. I need to build a split for FOH and MON. This split will sit on the wall of the organ chamber (accessible but not visible from the main part of the church) mounted in a large steel electrical box (24-in X 24-in X 6-in).

The home run to FOH (currently the aforementioned Medusa snake to which we will later add a second) will exit this box at the top, and go into the attic and on its way. Exiting the bottom will be a new 32ch snake going to the monitor console (3/4-in knock-outs fitted with the Whirlwind wire-mesh strain relief) and what's left of the 16+4 Medusa snake (about 45-ft) with the stage box still attached also fitted with a strain relief.

Mics will plug into the stage box and get split inside of the wall mount box. Our near term goal is to render the snake stage box obsolete by strategically placing a number of floor pockets in the stage with individual home runs to the "split box" (otherwise, I could simply drill a hole in the other end of the stage box and solder my own split right there).

We would then simply remove the 45-ft snake, re-terminate it with XLRs and add it to our "bag of tricks." Adding the second 20-ch snake home run to FOH (XLRs on fan, blunt cut on the split box end) will enable us to use the full 32-ch capability of the new FOH console and have some spares for additional monitor sends or whatever.

ADC QCP Series IV Contact Block

My question is this... Is there any advantage to using 110-type punch blocks, the old telco 66-blocks, or the (expensive) QCP punch downs over using say, euro-block connectors that have the screw terminals wherein you simply strip the wire (without tinning) and insert it into the screw terminal and tighten it down (like on the back of the Rane MA-6)? It seems to me that using the euro-block would prevent us from having to buy (and keep) a special punch-down tool, even though it would take slightly longer. My concern is that we do this thing correctly so that it continues to work reliably after 10 or 20 years.

110-type Punch Block

Reply posted by Travis on April 12, 2000

Having done several installations of video studios, I have had to do my share of both. The ADC are more expensive and require the special tool, but are well worth it. I found the Euroblocks to be cumbersome in crowded or awkward location, not to mention time consuming.

And the first time an intern drops a pair of utility pliers through the Euroblocks, ripping several wires from the connectors, the intern will be grateful you aren't showing him how to wire Euroblocks. Either way, remember to leave a service loop or slack somewhere close to them, just in case. OH! Invest in a good labeling scheme too!

My $0.02,
Travis


Reply posted by M. Mattson on April 12, 2000

I work with type 66 punch blocks on an almost-daily basis. I've found them to be very reliable and durable, as well as simplifying trouble-shooting and future (unforeseen) changes.

Granted, the tool isn't cheap, but it IS a one-time investment (for you). The one caveat (which shouldn't be a concern for you) is to NOT use over-sized wire. I would consider 20 ga to be a max, and would prefer you stay with 22-24-ga. The only other issue (which you've already taken care of) is to be sure to mount the blocks in a grounded, conductive case for additional shielding.

Mark