I under this is a “quick-guide” for use with limited tools.  But i’m honestly surprised by a number of things:  You did not use a good stripper for cutting, you just hacked away.  You did not heat shrink the ground wire as is typical (for us at least).  And you didn’t heat shrink the transition from conductors to solid jacketing.  Yes, yes the easy way out tends to work just find, but more often that not I come to venues who have tried this method with a horrible outcome.

Amen to the previous poster.  If the newbie solders the shield into one solid chunk - you can bet he’s in for some hum. Radio Shack still sells, last time I checked, a small aluminum heat sink device.  Looks kind of like an odd clothespin.  Put this about 1/4” from the bottom of the braid, where it meets the cable.  Then tin it as above. 
Also, I would say that an inch of .032 is a bit more than I use.  We only need to get a solid solder joint here.
One other tip - if the shield is done correctly, it has a lot more strength than the conductors.  If it is cut just 1/8” inch short, and allowed to take most of the strain, the cable will last longer.  On some female connectors, the ground solder tab is already inset about 1/16th or so.  If you have this kind of connector, cut them all the same length, and the existing setback will cover the relief we are after here.

There is one very important step left out of this how-to: place the strain relief or barrel onto the wire before soldering. I like to place it before stripping the wire, as they can be difficult to install on stripped wire. (I’ll admit, I’ve soldered up a connection only to realize the relief/barrel/nut wasn’t there. More than once.)

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Comment by brad000143 looks like SPAM.
If this is moderated, and I hope it is, Please kill this with his.